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These posts cover about 20 different working sessions on the 2025 Annual. I noticed my oil temp sensor was coming apart. This seems to happen with the GRT sensor - they keep improving the design, but it never really is 100%. At least with this design the temperature continued to read. The new sensor (and what the old one used to look like). This is relatively easy to install, an hour or so and I am good for a few more years.... One quick check before I call it complete - check the temperature on the EIS. I always hate doing any work to my fuel injectors - I always think why mess with them if there's nothing wrong. But for some reason I thought they needed a good cleaning this year. All was going well until I thought I hand tightened the nozzle line to the nozzle body. I then cranked down on it with a wrench and knew immediately something was not right - the nut kept on spinning. Shit. I really thought I me$$ed up this time! You can see the nut is slightly expanded where the arrow points. Feeling it with your fingers makes it very apparent something is not right. I was even rewarded with some physical evidence I messed up. Not knowing if the nozzle body was damaged also, I ordered a Nozzle Line (21" - $62.72) and Nozzle Body ($46.50) from Airflow Performance. I called up airflow performance and they were awesome with advising me with the correct length and guides for bending the nozzle line. Essentially it is soft enough to bend gently with your hands, and if you need a harder turn, use a 1" socket to bend it around. While not as beautiful as the previous nozzle line, it is functional and all back together. I was fearful I was in it for way more then $100 when I messed it up! For the past 500 hours I have been battling my fuel pressure fluctuating < 20 psi when the engine is hot and on the mechanical pump. As soon as I turn on the boost pump, I show normal pressure. I have tried: 1) New fuel pump 2) Fuel pump shroud 3) New fuel pressure sensor 4) Blast tube on fuel pressure sensor All without any luck! This annual I decided to add some firesleeve to the fuel pressure sensor line. I forget if there is an orifice off the fuel pump? Maybe if this doesn't work I can try seeing if there is some some of issue with the size of that orifice. When inspecting the rear spar attachment to the fuselage of the right wing, I noticed the bolt wasn't torqued down fully. I dropped the flap to get access to the bolt to tighten it. Unfortunately the flap was still in the way and I fully removed it to get better access. This wasn't a terribly difficult job other than it taking about an hour to get the cotter pin in! In 2024 uAvionix came out with Service Bulletin 04-2024 requiring a pressure source to be fed into the EchoUAT ADS-B transceiver. While my GRT EFIS is a pressure source for my Garmin 327 transponder, it was not on the approved list for uAvionix. Below are details on the SB from uAvionix (https://uavionix.com/service-bulletin/echouat-exp-service-bulletin-04-2024/) Service Bulletin Summary Based on FAA guidance, uAvionix requires all echoUAT customers to utilize an approved pressure altitude encoder capable of data input rates meeting the requirements of DO-282B. Background echoUAT does not contain an internal barometer.Instead, most echoUAT installations utilizeMode C replies for pressure altitude reporting in ADS-B messages.Concern arises when the aircraft flies in rural/non-radar coverage airspace where no Mode C replies are generated.This can lead to a situation where echoUAT reports old pressure altitude information due to a lack of Mode C replies or no pressure altitude data is available for extended periods of time.Furthermore, echoUAT has been integrated into many third-party transponder systems that send pressure altitude at various rates, some of which may not be compliant.echoUAT has no way to guaranteethese third party altitude encoder data rates, so an echoALT should be used to guaranteenecessary pressure altitude reporting performance. It's a pretty complete kit requiring ZERO wiring changes other than plugging in their pre-made harness. All I needed to do is mount the echoALT and connect it to my static system. I mounted it on one of the subpanel ribs on the pilot side. It took a couple hours to get it all connected, but I am happy with the result. The EchoUAT required some software updates. And finally when everything rebooted, a reasonable pressure altitude displayed in the app! My auxiliary battery life was getting very short - around 5 minutes. This battery seems to need to be replaced every 5 years or so. The replacement of the battery was easy enough, but when I turned on my Aux Battery Switch, I noticed the EFIS's died after about 5 seconds. When I jiggled the switch, they would come alive? Clearly the switch had failed - maybe this was my issue all along? Luckily the switch could not have been in a better easier to access spot. It was literally a 5 minute job. Simple switch, I would have never thought of it being a source of failure. If it happens again, I will replace it with a DPST switch for some redundancy. My poor lower cowl inside has certainly seen better days. You can see some of the burnt marks from the exhaust, paint peeling, and where the alternator pulley attempted to eat away at it. It needed some TLC. Alternator pulley damage (before I got a shorter belt) I cleaned up all the grease and oil, sanded down the pealing paint, applied a thin layer of microbaloons, and then painted the inside with what I used 15 years ago - Rust-Oleum High Performance Enamel Gloss White 7592. If it survived 1,000 hours with it already and it looks this good, why change? I do have some insulating foil I want to test to see if it prevents this peal, but that will be an action item after I complete this annual. Speaking of completing this annual - IT'S DONE! Engine runup was successful. Ready for another fun year (although I only put 16 hours on the RV last year...booooo).
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Last Modified: July 28, 2025 |