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[January 11, 2009]


One issue I had with the map box from AeroTronics was the front wasn't 100% square. I made a jig out of some angle drilled and clecoed to some particle board to try to maintain some alignment.


To fix the alignment, I used a heat gun to make the fiberglass box more malleable. After a couple iterations, it got to where it needed to be.


I drilled the angle to the map box.


Next I made the cutout for the hinge at the bottom of the map box. I should say that I am attaching the map box to the panel by 4 #8 screws. Two on the top, two on the bottom.


The action of the door looks perfect. Maybe a little trimming needed, but not much.


I did some measurements for where the screw holes needed to go and made them in the bottom hinge. I then backdrilled the hinge to the panel.


With the holes for the bottom two screws in the panel, I needed to backdrill the 063 angle in the map box for them. After some measuring fun, I committed them.


Then the top.


To make the map box fit into the panel, I needed to modify the forward canopy frame rail. I needed to trim off about 1/2" or so, as you cal see where the square intersects the forward rail.


I marked what needed to be trimmed.


And trimmed it with the dremel with the cutoff wheel, followed up by the file and sandpaper. I am going to reinforce this with some 063 angle later to make up for what I removed.


I cut the subpanel and the map box slid in perfectly. well, actually, the aft end of the map box is somewhat twisted. think I need to heat it up and get it looking a little better. Not that it will be seen when the canopy is closed, but it is obvious when the canopy is open.


The map box penetrates the subpanel about 4-5". Perfect -- I still have great use of those ribs for fuse blocks, etc..


I drilled the map box door to the hinge. I was thinking about using screws, for this attachment, but I think rivets make sense here. What a good day on the map box. I am really happy with how it has turned out.

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Last Modified: September 4, 2017