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[August 19, 2009]


Since I am controlling my flaps from the control stick, the microswitch on the grips isn't powerful enough to control the power to the flap motor. So I needed to use a relay. You can go to Radio Shack and wire up some off the shelf relays, but then you need to worry about diodes, etc.. Not that that is hard, but its a hassle. Vans sells a nice PCB board mounted relay (p/n "ES FLAP CONTROL BOARD") for about 40 bucks. It's actually manufactured by Advance Flight Systems. It comes very complete with mounting hardware and standoffs. So I mounted it on the inboard side of the seat rib just inboard of the pilots control stick.


And then wired it up. This was pretty easy to wire up. Just three wires to the control stick, two wires to the flap motor and a power and ground.


Next I mounted the xeVision xePulse wig-wag control box. HID landing lights cannot be wig-wagged immediately like halogen lights can. They need to be warmed up for a while, and then they can wig-wag. Now, I could always of used one of the more affordable ($40) wig-wag boxes not designed for HID's, but I really like the idea of "set it and forget it". So I decided to take the plunge and order this wig-wag box. At $200 it wasn't cheap by any means, but it does get the job done of automatically warming up the HID landing lights before flashing them.


What I didn't photograph was the majority of the work I did tonight. I ran servo wire for the pitch and roll servos. I am probably not going with an autopilot day 1 (especially since I decided to go back to school, and I am basically going to be broke for a while), but I wanted to wire it up now while everything is easy to access. I also ran three wires to the flap position indicator (Ray Allen POS-12) and a pair of wires to the Grand Rapids OAT sensor. And then of course the real time sink is routing the wires and temporarily dressing them up into a bundle. I got a fair amount of the wires terminated, but there is still a mess of wires left.
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Last Modified: September 4, 2017