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I tie wrapped the elevator trim servo wire to the nylon mount I glued yesterday. I wrapped it this way in order to reduce the stress on the small 26 gauge wires coming out of the trim servo. However, they do interfere a bit with inserting it into the elevator, and it makes it a pain to remove the trim servo from the elevator. I think I have to rethink my strategy, but it is perfect for just getting it working.  I joined the fuselage servo wire with the wire from the servo on top of the aft deck. I used a 6 position mini-Mate-n-lok connector, and secured the female end to a nylon base on the top of the deck. This makes it so I can remove the elevators and horizontal stabilizer easily.  For me to remove the trim wire I will have to disconnect the connector, then remove the pins from the connector and feed it through the horizontal stabilizer. I think I need to increase the size of the snap bushing in the HS.  I went to the cockpit and turned on the master switch to see if the trim tab moved. Sure enough it went up and down, although I believe it is backwards. However, that is easy to fix when I wire it up permanently. The LED indicator worked perfect too. One concern I had was when I tested transmitting on my COM radios, I saw some interference on the Ray Allen LED indicators. However, I thought it was due to the fact they weren't hooked up to the servo's, so the wires going to the servos were just basically antennas. Good news is once the servo was hooked up, I did not see any interference when I transmitted on the 430W or A210.  The last bit of wiring I need to do on the fuselage is make an exit hole for the rudder position and strobe lights. To make sure I had a good location, I mounted up the vertical stabilizer. After doing some research on the various websites I determined this is the most popular location for running the wires to the rudder. I drilled a 3/8" hole for the snap bushing through the aft spar of the vertical stabilizer and the aft bulkhead of the fuselage.  I installed a 3/8" OD 1/4" ID snap bushing into the hole. The wires fit through it perfectly. Because the material is so thick here, once I deburred the holes I used some GOOP to glue the bushing in place because the lock tabs were not engaging on any material to keep it in place.  I made another 3/8" hole on the next forward bulkhead for the wire run. I wanted to dress the wire up a little by installing the nylon sleeving.  Once again I enjoyed a solid 45 minutes of sanding and filling the empennage fairing. Believe it or not, these are not retro stonewash jeans I am sporting. I hate fiberglass. 
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Last Modified: October 5, 2024 |